James Hathaway – Page 73

10 Easy Marinade Recipes

I love marinades! The investment of a few minutes to prepare a marinade pays huge dividends at the dinner plate. The ordinary become extraordinary. Give these a try and let me know your thoughts.

Red or White Wine and Herb Marinade

This is a basic recipe for a classic French marinade. Vary the herbs according to the wine and the meat, poultry, or seafood that you are using. Try oregano, rosemary, marjoram, or chives. This marinade is particularly well suited to poultry, lamb or beef.

1 cup olive oil

1 cup good red or white wine

1/4 cup red or white wine vinegar, optional

4 cloves of garlic, crushed

2 medium red or yellow onions, sliced

2 shallots, sliced

1 carrot, sliced

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme, or 2 tsp. dried

1 tsp. black peppercorns

1 bay leave

4 whole cloves, crushed

Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl. Use or cover and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 2 1/4 cups liquid.

Spicy Peanut Marinade

This marinade is similar to the sauce used with Indonesian satay. Use with pork, beef or chicken.

1/2 cup coconut milk

1/2 cup smooth peanut butter

1/2 cup chicken broth

2 tbsp. lime juice

1 tbsp. bottled fish sauce

1 tbsp. brown sugar

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp., packed, minced fresh ginger

1/2 to 1 tsp. red pepper flakes, or to taste

1/2 tsp. salt

Place all ingredients in a saucepan and slowly bring to a boil, whisking until smooth. Lower the heat and simmer the marinade for 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl to cool. When cool, use or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Honey Mustard Marinade

This marinade keeps well for about two weeks in the refrigerator. Add some garlic or cayenne or Tabasco for a spicier marinade. Add chopped fresh herbs such as chives, parsley, thyme or tarragon. Use with lamb, chicken, pork or salmon. When cooked, the marinade forms an appetizing crust.

1/2 cup Dijon-style mustard

1/2 cup grainy mustard

1/2 honey

1/3 cup lemon juice

freshly ground pepper to taste

Whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl. Use or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1 3/4 cups.

Lemon Marinade

This is a delicious marinade with a Greek flair. Try on fish, poultry, veal, or pork tenderloin. Change the herbs as you like, or add lots of coarsely ground black pepper for a lemon-pepper marinade.

1 cup lemon juice

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup drained capers, optional

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

1 tbsp. dried oregano

1 tbsp. grated lemon zest

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix with a fork or whisk. Allow to sit at room temperature for about 1/2 hour before using; this will develop the flavors. Use or cover and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1 1/4 cups.

Indian Yogurt Marinade

This is a variation of a typical tandoori marinade. Use with boneless chicken breasts, shrimp, or pork tenderloin.

1 piece fresh ginger, about two inches long, weighing about 1 ounce, peeled and cut into chunks.

2 cloves garlic

3/4 cup plain yogurt

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tbsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. ground coriander

1/2 tsp. ground black pepper

1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper

1/4 tsp. ground cardamom

1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

pinch of ground clove

Place the ginger and garlic in a bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times to break up the pieces. Add all the remaining ingredients and process until the ginger and garlic are almost pureed. The marinade will have a grainy texture. Use the cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes about 1 1/4 cups.

Teriyaki Marinade

In Japanese cooking, teriyaki refers to a sweet soy sauce-based sauce that is applied during the last stages of cooking seafood, chicken, pork or beef. Teri means gloss, which describes the sheen of the dish. This effect, or glazing, is achieved during the broiling (yaki) of the food. Here we are using the sauce as a marinade.

You may buy commercially prepared teriyaki sauce, but this is such a simple, quick preparation, it’s best to make it yourself so you can keep the amount of sugar to a minimum. This sauce will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator, covered in a glass jar. Use as a marinade for beef, pork, chicken, or seafood, particularly salmon, tuna, or bluefish. You may also use as a dipping sauce for dumplings, tempura, shrimp, chicken fingers, or spoon over rice or noodle dishes.

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine or sherry)

1/2 cup sake (rice wine)

2 tsp. sugar, brown or white

Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix with fork to dissolve the sugar. Use or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

Balsamic-Basil Vinaigrette

Using a vinaigrette or salad dressing as a marinade is a simple method to impart big flavor to foods. Let your imagination go and create your own special combination. Try red wine vinegar instead of the balsamic and use minced red onion and thyme with it. Use raspberry vinegar and add some sweet onions, or sherry vinegar and grated orange zest.

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 tsp. salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil, or 1 tbsp. dried

1 tbsp. minced shallot

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Combine the vinegar, salt, pepper, basil and shallot in a small bowl and whisk to dissolve the salt. Slowly whisk in the oil until smooth. Use or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. If storing before use, whisk again just before marinating to mix the vinegar and oil. Makes about 1 cup.

Jalapeno-Lime Marinade

You may increase the spiciness of this marinade by using more jalapeno chile or replacing them with the spicier serrano chile. Use this marinade with chicken, seafood, pork or beef.

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup lime juice

1 small onion, chopped

2 jalapeno chile, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin

freshly ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl. Allow to sit at room temperature for about 1/2 hour before using to let the flavors to develop. Use or cover and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1 1/4 cups.

Barbecue-Pineapple Marinade

This is an instant marinade that adds a unique flavor to smoky-sweet barbecue sauce. If you have the time, make your own barbecue sauce. Use this marinade on pork or beef ribs, chicken, or lamb.

1 cup barbecue sauce of your choice

3/4 cup pineapple sauce

Place all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Use or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1 3/4 cups.

Soy-Ginger-Sesame Marinade

This is a powerfully flavored marinade with all the classic Chinese ingredients. Use on pork, beef, poultry and lamb.

6 Tbsp. dark sesame oil

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

2 scallions, sliced

1 Tbsp., packed, minced fresh ginger

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp. honey

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and stir to mix well. Use or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes about 1 cup.

Mendocino and Fort Bragg, CA

We just got back from an extraordinary long weekend in Mendocino and Fort Bragg, California.

The two towns are less than 10 miles apart yet very different. Both enjoy a long history. Mendocino with its charming inns and hotels, unique shops and upscale food scene is probably the best known.

Fort Bragg, alternatively, is the larger commercial and business center. It is home to the seasonal Skunk Train and its historic ride through the coastal mountains and its stands of old growth forests. The journey is loved by young and old alike.

We were blessed with wonderful weather with almost no wind, long sunny days with long walks along many beaches and oceanside bluffs.

We enjoyed excellent food, some old favorites and a few new favorites. We thought we would share some of our experiences with our friends and family.

On the Road: After decades of taking the same route (fastest, most direct) to the North Coast we decided to take a longer slower route along more of the coast. This took us through Sebastopol, along the Russian River and some of the most beautiful coastline in the state.

We stopped in Point Arena to see the famed lighthouse and then on to the town by the same name where we discovered a great “watering hole”.

The Pier Chowder House & Tap Room

Super fresh seafood and shellfish at affordable prices right on the edge of the local pier. And the views were pretty special too. The historic bar looks pretty inviting around cocktail hour.

While there are many options for lodging ranging from opulent B&Bs to simple motels, we forgot about the Memorial Day holiday. We almost did not go because hotel rates were off the charts, $200, $300 or more per night.

Fortunately, we reached out to our old stand by, The Harbor Lite Motel where we have stayed many times. Perched on the bluff above Noyo Harbor we scored a Deluxe King room for well under $200 per night. (It helps being recognized as a frequent visitor.)

MacKerricher State Park is one of our favorite parks just north of Fort Bragg. There is no fee for day use visitors. There is a nice display of a whale skeleton just inside the gates, homage no doubt to the whaling history in the area ages ago. There are ample picnic grounds, clean restrooms, a gorgeous beach and a wonderful raised boardwalk out to the headlands. It is a wonderful way to spend a few hours or a few days. Keep an eye out for creatures big and small: sea lions and whales, bunnies and chipmunks, deer.

Noyo Headlands Park

A massive former lumber facility has been reinvented with the creation of the Noyo Headlands Park. The entrance is just north of Downtown Fort Bragg and opens an expansive area to hiking and biking, beachcombing and tide pools. Albeit crowded for the holiday, the park easily absorbed the masses and we often felt like we had the place all to ourselves (more or less).

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens

Every once and a while you stumble upon a place that exceeds all expectations. This is the case for the 47 acres that comprise the Botanical Gardens in Fort Bragg. Divided into two distinct parts, one focused on a series of gardens, the second focused on trails and open land of the Coastal bluffs.

There is also a Plant Nursery, café, and a charming gift shop with unique products. Together the total package is a true gem and well worth the $14.00 admission.

Food

In the center of Fort Bragg’s charming little downtown are several quality choices for food and drink.

Headlands Coffeehouse, 120 East Laurel Street, is as local as you can get. Extensive list of coffees, teas, juices, beer and wine. Equally extensive list of food from “morning food” to salads, Panini, and house made entrees.

Silver’s at The Wharf, on Noyo River is our go to spot for the freshest seafood in the harbor setting. Great cocktails and an extensive menu. Reservations suggested during peak season.

Cucina Verona, 124 East Laurel Street, serving quality meals breakfast, lunch and dinner. We enjoyed the fluffiest frittatas for breakfast one morning and excellent salad and pizza one evening. It seems to get better with every visit.

Taka’s Japanese Grill, 250 North Main St. serves great Japanese food as good as any in San Francisco. Sushi, Tempura, Teriyaki, Udon and more. Our newest discovery! We will go back!

Highlight meal. We cannot go to Mendocino without at least one meal at Café Beaujolais in Mendocino. Our lunch began with iced teas with vanilla and a bread basket of two house bakery breads.

We both had the cream of nettle soup with white truffle oil.

John had a huge shredded chicken salad with nuts and veggies with an Asian dressing. Jim had a wild mushroom pasta with cherry tomatoes and cream sauce.

We shared a molten chocolate cake with ice cream.

(We waddled out for a very long walk.)

Also noteworthy for house made jams, jellies, mustards and much more is Mendocino Jams and Preserves, “at the Ocean End of Main Street”. It is a ‘must’ stop for us. They also ship! MendoJams.com

X-Men: Apocalypse, Alice Through the Looking Glass, The Nice Guys, Weiner

X-Men: Apocalypse

In this ninth installment in the X-Men series, the ancient (original) mutant is awakened and attempts to take over the world while the X-Men try to stop him. That is about it… Well, maybe a bit understated. But only a bit.

En Sabah Nur, bad mutant, is a really good really bad dude. He recruits four of the X-men as the “Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse.” They raise havoc around the planet. In the mean time, the good mutants are circling the wagons…

There are really good special effects, lots of unexpected surprises and reasonably good acting. James McAvoy, the always awesome Michael Fassbender, and the consistently good Jennifer Lawrence are the most noteworthy.

Critics were not pleased and audiences shunned this episode. We thought is was fun and worth the time and money. Maybe there are too many Marvel movies in release these days. Just a thought.

Rating:

Alice Through the Looking Glass

Well…it had to be made. After all the 2010 Alice in Wonderland racked up a whopping $1 Billion box office.

So now we have Alice Through the Looking Glass with many of the original actors in tow. Jonny Depp with better than ever make up and still stupid accent plays Hatter. Ann Hathaway is still the White Queen tormenting her sister the evil Red Queen played by the incredible Helena Bottom Carter.

Sacha Baron Cohen plays Time and Mia Wasikska plays Alice, now all grown up and cheated by her extended family of fame and fortune.

Ultimately Alice tries to use time to go back in time to save Hatter’s family from oblivion. Visually stunning, mostly entertaining but ultimately fatiguing, we were disappointed.

Rating:

The Nice Guys

The good news is this was a fun romp through Hollywood of the1970s: drugs, sex and mayhem. It was well crafted, held your interest and was often very funny. Russell Crowe and Ryan Gosling have excellent chemistry together.

On the down side, the main characters bordered on dumb and dumber. They were not “nice guys”. In fact, they were conniving, irresponsible shysters and terrible professionals.

On the bright side, it was not boring. It clips along at a quick pace and once you embrace this as a silly comedy, it becomes an easy watch.

Audiences and critics liked this much more than we did. I’ll watch it again on a long plane ride and reconsider my opinion.

Rating:

Weiner

Oh my! This documentary is about the former New York Congressman, Anthony Weiner, who ran for Mayor of New York in 2013. “Former” because in 2011, he was forced to resign after texting a series of sexual pictures of himself to women that became public and the subject of relentless ridicule.

His wife, still a top aide to Hillary Clinton, struggled to “stand by her man” but, nonetheless, endured and supported her husband.

It seemed odd that anyone would agree to a documentary like this. It is both riveting and creepy at the same time. The critics loved it. I found it pitiful.

Rating:

Food as Medicine

Your mother was right! You should eat your vegetables (and a few other foods). Studies are showing if we eat the right foods we might live longer, have healthier skin, and add protection from illnesses.

We found this interesting, helpful and sometimes amusing. Enjoy!

Apple	Pectin	lowers cholesterol, controls diabetes by regulating blood sugar and relieves diarrhea.
Banana	Vitamin B6 Potassium	increases immunity to infection, colds, and the flu and reduces inflammation. controls hypertension and alleviates muscle cramps and stomach distress.
Beans	Vitamin E Vitamin B	(in soybeans and lima beans) fights heart disease. (in white and red beans, soybeans, lima beans) prevents some birth defects, including spina bifida.
Bran	Soluble fiber Magnesium	fights colon cancer and lowers LDL. prevents convulsions, regulates heartbeat and lessens the risk of heart attack.
Carrot	Beta-carotene Calcium Pectate	fights carcinogens, lowers cholesterol and boosts immune system. lowers cholesterol and relieves diarrhea.
Celery	3-Butylphthalide Insoluble fiber	lowers blood pressure by preventing vessel constriction. maintains digestive system, preventing constipation and gallstones.
Coffee	Caffeine	relieves asthma, prevents water retention, relieves constipation and increases energy.
Cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower)	Vitamin C, Beta Carotene, Indoles and Monoterpene	slow cancer-cell growth.
Fatty Fish/oil (herring, mackerel, salmon, tuna	Omega 3 Fatty Acids	reduce risk of heart desease, guard against blood clots, control hypertension, reduce inflammation and relieve asthma.
Garlic	Adenosine Ajoene Diallyl Sulfides, Phenolic Acid, and Quercetin	lowers blood pressure prevents blood clots fight carcinogens and lower cholesterol.

Ginger

fights nausea, relieves headaches, and arthritis, reduces inflammation and guards against blood clots.

Green Tea

Catechins

Streptococcus Mutans

protects against cancer, fights viral infection and lower LDL.

prevents cavities

Licorice

Triterpenoids

Coumarin

slow cancer-cell growth.

guards against blood clots and ulcers and fights cavities

Onion

Ajoene

Daillyl Sulfides and QUercetin

prevents heart desease and lowers cholesterol.

fight carcinogens and reduce inflammation and pain.

Orange

Vitamin C

Phenolic Acid

helps produce healthysperm and increases fertility.

fight carcinogens and heart disease.

Pepper

Vitamin C (in red peppers)

Beta-Carotene

fights respiratory disease and cancer and maintains healthy sperm.

fights heart disease and some forms of cancer.

Peppermint

Reduces gas pains.

Pumpkin seeds

Amino Acids

Zinc

reduces prostate enlargement and regulates testosterone levels.

prevents prostate enlargement and testosterone levels.

Spinach

Beta-Carotene

Magnesium

Potassium

protects against cancer and boosts immune system.

alleviates migraines.

regulates blood pressure.

Strawberries

Ellagic Acid

Vitamin C

Fiber

fights carcinogens.

maintains healthy sperm and lowers cholesterol.

protects against colon and rectal cancer.

Yogurt

Lactobacillus

Acidophilus

stimulates good bacteria growth, reduces cold symptoms, relieves diarrhea and boost immune system.

FRITTATA

Mix one up with whatever’s in your pantry using this simple formula!

EGGS

Beat 8 eggs in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Now whisk in…

Vegetables

Add up to 2 veggies (your favorites, or suggestions below) to eggs; use 1 1/2 cups total.

Sautéed mushrooms
Frozen Corn
Chopped tomatoes
Roasted sliced potatoes
Sautéed onions or leeks
Roasted broccoli
Roasted red peppers

Protein

Add 1, use 3/4 cup

Chopped smoked salmon
Cooked sausage crumbles
Canned beans
Diced ham or bacon

Cheese

Add 1 or 2; use up to 1 cup total (unless noted).

Grated Parmesan
Crumbled blue cheese or feta (use up to 1/2 cup)
Grated cheddar
Diced mozzarella
Sour cream or ricotta

Herbs

Add 1; use up to 3/4 cup, chopped. For stronger herbs, like rosemary or dill, use 2 Tbsp, chopped.

Basil
Chives
Cilantro
Tarragon
Mint

Flavor Boost

Add 1; use 1 Tbsp.

Dijon mustard
Capers or tapenade
Grated citrus zest
Sriracha or pesto

BAKE

Warm 1 Tbsp. olive oil over medium-high heat in a 10 inch ovenproof nonstick skillet. Add egg mixture and immediately pull set edges toward the center to allow uncooked egg to run underneath. Cook until edges set again, 1 to 2 minutes, then bake in a preheated 350F degree oven until top is just set, about 15 minutes; do not overcook.

Let cool 5 minutes in pan before inverting onto a plate. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Bon Appetite!

The Darkness, Love and Friendship, Dough, Viva

The Darkness

This psychodrama meets the supernatural after a vacation in the Grand Canyon by a Southern California family was not well received by the film critics.

It was a tad confusing. The writers threw in a bit of autism, bulimia, alcoholism, and infidelity just to make it interesting, if you will. That just muddied the waters. We all saw the creepy guys from the beginning, all the rest was window dressing for the finale.

Kevin Bacon is the most notable star and delivers a fair to middling performance. This will undoubtedly be available on pay per view very soon. Save your money unless you are in the mood. It will be on a network channel or airplane sooner than later.

Rating:

Love and Friendship

This film is based on the unpublished novella Lady Susan written by Jane Austen in 1794. That’s amazing because this period piece is sharp, witty, funny and unpredictable. Sometimes all of the above concurrently.

Kate Beckinsale channels Lady Susan Vernon and oozes impeccable taste and scheming ambitions. There are more ins and out, ups and downs than your favorite soap opera. The costumes, sets and humor are flawlessly delivered.

Do see this on the big screen if you can. This is sure to become a popular classic.

Favorite line: Lady Susan’s daughter says: “but marriage is for one’s whole life!” Lady Susan who has recently been widowed replies “Not in my experience,”

Rating:

Dough

This is a comedy/drama that does not take itself too seriously. Good thing because otherwise the storyline is implausible and kitchy, albeit funny and endearing.

Aging Jewish baker hires young black Muslim immigrant to help bake kosher goods in an evolving British neighborhood. It sounds benign until the young apprentice starts adding marijuana to certain recipes and conceal an added “surcharge” for the fortified goods.

There is no Oscar material here but just enough laughs and twists to make it worth a watch.

Rating:

Viva

This is an interesting and fascinating film. Interesting because the story is about a young man, Jesus, who ekes out a living as a hairdresser in the slums of Havana, Cuba. One of his customers is the owner of a seedy drag club who offers Jesus the opportunity to perform.

Suddenly Jesus’s father appears, recently released from prison and inserts himself into Jesus’s apartment and life. The father is a drunk, a bully and is verbally abusive toward Jesus’ life choices.

Oddly enough, this film is an Irish production, filmed entirely in Cuba. Viva means “to live”. This is a harsh peek at life in the slums but also a look at compassion and perseverance.

Very limited theater release. Seek this one out for a look at a unique film.

Rating:

Two weeks in Sicily, Part 3

Mothya Island

A visit to Mothya Island is highly recommended. A short boat ride from the shore, the Phoenicians built a settlement here 2,700 years ago. Today it hosts a small museum dedicated to salt. The surrounding area still produces salt today. It is a fun way to spend a few hours.

On the drive back to our hotel, we stopped at the famed Pellegrino Cellars. Known best in the US for the Pellegrino brand of sparkling waters, the two facilities in Sicily are world renown for their wines. The Marsala wines are the most famous but there is an extensive production of white and red wines as well. While not open to the public for tours, we were lucky enough to have a private tour of the winery and a vertical tasting of Marsala wines. The building is a gorgeous statement to modern architecture. (We purchased a 1/2 bottle of a desert red for nightcaps in our room. Yum!!)

Valley of Temples

Just outside of the City of Agrigento, formerly the ancient Greek city of Akragas are the remains of eight Greek temples built between 510 and 430 BC. The “valley” is actually a ridge overlooking the Sea on one side and modern Agrigento overlooking the Temples on the other. They are simply stunning and among some of the best Greek ruins anywhere. Plan a half day at least.

Vecchia Masseria

We single out this traditional farm house/agriturismo for two reasons. It is wonderfully unique lodging comprising of a large “manor house” (surrounded by a handful of similar smaller buildings. Opt for the original manor.) Secondly, the dining room served arguably the best dinner of the trip. World class cuisine and superb wines.

Vecchia Masseria, C/DA Cutuminello, Caltagirone (CT), Italy

Villa Romana del Casale

The ruins of this Roman villa built in the 4th century AD was buried by a landslide in the 12th century. Discovered in the 20th century and excavated revealing some of the finest mosaics in all of Europe. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site not to be missed if you are in this area.

Ragusa and Modica

Old town Ragusa Ibla is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are numerous ornately decorated Baroque buildings, the 18th century Duomo di San Giorgio. Plan a day to simply explore and wander the narrow streets, follow your nose for food and your eyes for shopping. Both towns are hilly, public transportation and taxis are readily available.

Modica is the “sister” city although there is and has always been a rivalry between the two towns. Modica’s Val di Noto is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Both towns were largely rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake. We joined a local Fiat 500 club one afternoon for a wild ride through narrow street and lanes of the old part of Modica. It was a fun and wild ride.

Monsu

Another of our favorite restaurants in the entire trip was at Monsu, C.so XXV Aprile, 84 Ragusa Ibla. Husband and wife team up to produce a amazing French fusion menu served in a modern updated ancient building. Very reasonably priced food and wine with exceptional service.

Syracuse

Once one of the most powerful ports of ancient times, Syracuse boosts a 2700 year history. Also a UNESCO World Heritage site with Greek, Roman, Medieval and Baroque architecture coexist. The highlight is the Piazza del Duomo, a huge square adjacent to the duomo built using the ruins of a Greek temple. An afternoon boat ride around the Ortigia Bay is a must to take in the most of this remarkable city.

Catania and Taormina

Catania is a vibrant city, a bustling cross roads of cultures, history, education and culture. At the footsteps of Mt. Etna, the charcoal colored buildings have a distinct unique look, especially at night. There is a awesome WWII war museum well worth a visit. The local fish market is popular for shopping and dining alike.

Taormina is a short journey up the hillside with a Greek amphitheater as it star attraction. There is a charming shopping and dining district and sweeping views of Mt. Etna and the coast.

Mt. Etna, One of the most active volcanos in the world.

End Sicily

Two weeks in Sicily, Part 2

Erice

This medieval town feels like it has been in a time capsule. It is surrounded by walls. It sits on a mountain-top overlooking the sea on one side and the vast landscape on the other.

We visited on a Monday in February somewhat early and much of the town seems closed. Somehow this added to the charm. It was charming and picturesque. The local Postal lady delivering mail from house to house on the narrowest of cobblestone streets. The occasional shop keeper opening for the day. A charming café offering a hot cup of coffee for a few moments out of the chilly morning wind.

It was well worth the extra time to seek this out. I can imagine it crowded and bustling in the height of summer and reflecting on the peace and tranquility of seeing in in the off season.

Segesta

This ancient home of the Elymians, one of Sicily’s indigenous peoples, later populated by the Greeks. The highlight of the area is the unfinished Doric temple proudly standing on a hilltop surrounded by an idyllic setting of vineyards, olive groves and expansive countryside.

Mazara Del Vallo

Not far from Segesta is Mazara del Vallo, a family run agriturismo, Tenute Pispisa Segesta. The facility hosts lodging, dining, and special events in a spectacular setting. We had an amazing lunch made from all farm grown and prepared ingredients highlighted by exceptional wines produced on site. We bought a couple Afterwards we chose to hike back to the main road along the acres of vineyards, olive groves adjacent forests.

Tenute Pispisa Segesta, www.tenutepispisasegesta.com, info@tenutepispisasegesta.com

Mazara

Mazara is a multicultural city with an impressive Duomo. There is a quaint little museum housing a Greek bronze statue dating back 2000 years recovered by local fishermen from the nearby sea.

Mazara is also the home to a thriving “Kasbah” where over 3000 Arabs and Tunisians work and live. The area is noted for its artisans tile work.

Part 3 coming soon!

Mothya Island

Piazza Armerina

Ragusa

Catania

Mt. Etna

Two weeks in Sicily, Part 1

We piggy backed our tour of Sicily with a week on our own in Rome. (See TRAVEL: Rome post, dated 4/7/2016.)

Alitalia has several flights a day between from Rome (and other major Italian cities) and Palermo and Catania, Sicily.

The views upon approach were strikingly beautiful. City and mountains meet the azure seas. The compact airport was easy to navigate. A taxi from the airport to central Palermo was about 50 Euros. We opted for a first class shuttle bus that had a stop one block from our hotel costing only 12 Euros each.

The first impression at this new destination was a bit disappointing. After leaving the Airport the coastal highway presented a series of old, crumbling industrial sites and miles of modest to dilapidated ocean front homes.

Palermo

As we got closer to Palermo the roads and images improved. Suddenly Palermo appeared to be an extensive series of midrise housing blocks with commercial or retail on the first floor, somewhat void of any historic character.

Finally we arrived at a central square overlooking one of two Opera houses, our stop. As it turned out, our Plaza Opera Hotel was centrally located one block from the most important shopping street in Palermo and an easy walk to restaurants and the old part of town. The hotel, while compact, has a charming breakfast room and a hearty breakfast, a cute tiny bar, comfortable modern rooms with all the amenities. There is a roof deck open in good weather. Service was excellent. Most staff spoke excellent English. Plaza Opera Hotel, via Nicolo Gallo, 2, 90139 Palermo, Italia. info@hotelplazaopera.com or www.the hotel sphere.com.

As we spent the afternoon getting acquainted with our new home for the next few days, we made a wonderful discovery that lasted the rest of our trip: prices were 30% to 70% cheaper than most of Western Europe. A liter of bottled water was 25 cents and good wines were 3 to 5 Euros. Perfectly satisfying whites and reds at bargain prices. You could spend more but given the quality and selection, we were happy campers.

Palermo: Old Quarter

This area is the ancient part of Palermo and the confluence of the many nations that ruled this city over the centuries, predominately Christian and Islam. This well preserved area of the city is filled with buildings dating back centuries. Most are well preserved or restored. The cathedral was first a mosque before being expanded and converted to a church during the Norman period. It has a look and feel different from most of Europe but that is part of the charm and fascination.

Monreale

Overlooking Palermo is suburban Monreale and its 12th Century Norman Cathedral. Nearly every surface of the interior is covered in mosaics of biblical scenes in rich colors and lots of gold.

After returning to Palermo’s historic quarter for a walk through the traditional marketplace, we lunched on roasted vegetables, pasta and pastries.

Castelbuono & Cefalu

Sandwiched between the bay and a massive granite cliff is the bucolic town of Cefalu. Its Romanesque cathedral dates back to 1131.

Set in the Madonie Mountains, Castelbuono is a well preserved medieval town complete with 14th century castle embattlements and towers.

Part 2…Coming Soon

Mazara Del Vallo

Mothya Island

Piazza Armerina

Ragusa

Catania

Mt. Etna

Money Monster, Dark Horse, High Rise, Sing Song

Money Monster

It seems the critics were expecting a Wall Street epiphany from this Jodie Foster directed film about a live Investments Television show that is derailed when a young disgruntled blue collar investor takes over the set and threatens to blow everyone up with a bomb.

I’ll admit, it’s not perfect and there are some wrinkles that are a bit far fetched, but the core story is pretty good. Strong performances by George Clooney, Julia Roberts and Jack O’Connell as the would be bomber whose character is way out of his league.

The tension factor is about right. The police as mislead heavy handed public servants is reflective of the current public perception. It was an entertaining way to spend a couple of hours. Just don’t expect any big industry awards for this one.

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Dark Horse

It is hard not to like this true story. A hand full of working class friends from a poor mining village in Wales pool their meager resources to buy a broodmare who produces a foal that eventually becomes a champion race horse that wins the Welsh Grand National.

It is a documentary that flows like a soap opera or sit com. There are plenty of social commentaries woven into the story. In fact, it is core to the story. It’s the winner of several audience awards including the 2015 World Documentary Award at the 2015 Sundance Film Festival.

It is a feel good film that offers a rare glimpse into simple village life in rural UK.

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High Rise

This is suppose to be a Fantasy Science Fiction film about class warfare that erupts in a modern urban high rise residential building resulting in chaos and carnage. The idea seems to reveal or exploit the extreme socioeconomic canyons between the “haves” and “have nots”.

Instead, the story degenerates into obscure violence, strong sexual content/nudity, and a plethora of disturbing images and language. I am surprised with only an R rating.

The great cast and well intended plot could not save this film. At almost two hours, we were delighted when the movie ended. Note the rare rating.

Rating: ZERO GLOBES

Sing Street

Here is a feel good movie that will remind you of your youth (hopefully). Set in Dublin, Ireland in 1985 and filled with music of the era. Fourteen year old school boys from a poor rough Catholic neighborhood decide to start a band.

The lead singer falls for the young “model” across the street. The suitor uses the “band”, not yet created, to draw her into the making of a music video to promote the new venture.

The talented young want-to be-band members quickly find their ‘sound’ (think Duran Duran) and eventually land a gig at the school. Of course there is the parallel love interest and a great ending. Rated PG. Some strong language, bullying and drugs. (It was the 80s!)

Special note: There is a scene in the movie set in the Dublin suburb of Dalkey. John and I and John’s Mom were there in 1985 (same year the movie is set in). It looks as charming now as it did then.

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