Travel: Evora, day 2.

Today we explored Evora more in depth.  We began the day with a City walk including a talk at the local university, and a visit to the local cathedral and the small Franciscan Church of San Francisco, also know as the chapel of bones.

A visit to the local University.
Our guest speakers after their talk.
Street scene in the city center.
The city center midday.
The narrow streets of the city center.
The altar at the Cathedral.
The Chapel of (Human) bones.
Hundreds and hundreds of human bones. Creepy!

We later spent midday at a local Portuguese Cooking school where we prepared lunch for each other, half preparing appetizers and first courses and the others preparing the main course and desert. The wine flowed, so did the laughter, it was a delightful meal.

John prepares baked apples for desert.
Both of us with sharp knives!

Travel: Evora, Portugal

Yesterday we traveled from Lisbon through the countryside to Evora.  The weather was gloomy and rainy most of the day.  Surprisingly our stops included a welcomed break in the rain.

We explored Arraiolos, a village with a quaint museum of ancient tapestries.  Midday took us to Monte da Ravasqueira, a delightful complex with a great Carriage Museum, a winery including a delicious lunch and a gift shop where we purchased some excellent wines.

By mid afternoon we arrived at our hotel, Pousada Convento de Evora.  Built in 1485, a hotel since 1965.  All in all, a delightful day.

The winery and Carriage Museum.

The winery and its extensive grounds.
The wine is aging.
Starters
Lunch, risotto, salad and desert.
The bedroom, Evora.
View of a 1st Century Roman Temple outside our window, Evora.

Travel: Lisbon Pena Palace

The clock tower.

The weather has cooperated over the last couple days.  The showers have evaporated for the most part, except for the occasional squall.  Our last two days have been unexpectedly nice.

Yesterday was the first day of our Portugal/Spain tour with an orientation walk.  The evening was focused on the Bario Alto neighborhood and a tapas dinner.  Our fellow travelers are a good group.

Today we went to Sintra.  This was our second visit to the area but it felt as though we had never been before.  After a nice lunch in Sintra, we drove to the Pena Palace, an expansive hilltop castle built on the ruins of an ancient monastery.  It was built by Don Fernando II.  It is also a World Heritage Site.

The Town Hall of Sintra.
The castle from below.
The entrance gate to the castle.
The guardian of the castle.
The clock tower.
A view from the top.
The altar in the chapel.
View of the kitchen.

Travel: Lisbon, Portugal, A Walk in the Alfama District

We arrived mid afternoon yesterday after a two hour flight from Paris Orly airport to Lisbon.  We were pleased to be greeted by mild weather.

After settling in, we decided to explore our immediate neighborhood.    The mix of old and new (or renovated) seems everywhere.  Little shops and restaurants are only a block away from the stores featurering Global Brands.

After a great night’s sleep, we decided a walk was in order.  We decided to explore the hilly Alfama District, one of the oldest parts of the city.

We refreshed ourselves on the subway system and four stops later we were at the waterfront facing a daunting climb/walk/hike up a formidable hill to the Se Cathedral, originally built in 1150 AD.  It was damaged over the centuries by three earthquakes and finally rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake.

Outside the subway station looks like a Delacroix painting.
The facade of the SE Cathedral.
The Rose window and the tapestry are prized possessions of this Cathedral.

Next we continued our walk farther up the hill top of the Castelo fortress and the old neighborhoods nestled against the walls.  It was a rewarding walk that made sure we knew we weren’t in Paris anymore.

Lisbon’s streetcars have been running since electricity was developed.
Something in common with San Francisco, hills and the Bay.
One charming view after another.

The rewards for scaling these hills is view after view.

Happy we made it to the Castelo Walls.
The higher we explore, The narrower the path.
This is one of the rewarding views from the top.
Going down is almost as much effort as going up. (Well not really but it’s rewarding when you have accomplished the goal!)

Total distance 4.7 miles, 22 flights of stairs.

Travel: Paris, Walk 4: Sainte Chapelle, Musee Jacquemart Andre

The Conciergerie housed over 1400 prisoners after the revolution including Marie Antoinette. Most lost their lives to the guillotine. Behind is the Supreme Court and St. Chapelle.

It was a particularly cold but clear day with a bitterly cold breeze.  We were determined to make the best of it and visit a couple of old favorite sites we have not seen in a very long time.

Our first stop was Sainte Chapelle, built in 1242 to 1248.  Today it is considered to be the most beautiful church in Paris.  What is remarkable is the enormous volume of glass and light.  It is truly stunning.

The roof of St. Chapelle from the courtyard of the Supreme Court.
Remarkable stained glass dating to the 13th century.
The verses of the Bible can be read in the glass panels, left to right from the bottom to the top.
The ceiling is filled with gold leaf stars.

Our next stop was Musee Jacquemart Andre.  A private residence that  became an art museum bequeathed by the owners.  It holds an extraordinary collection including paintings by Rembrandt, Botticelli,   Uccello, and several others.

Upon arrival we decided a bite to eat was in order and we took advantage of the museum’s wonderful cafe.

Brunch with a nice Rose from Provence.

Now the house and collection.

The entrance.
The Salon.
The Conservatory.
Exceptional interiors.
Incredible ceilings.
An unknown court jester.

You cannot go to Paris without a visit to the Arc de Triomphe.

A fitting finish for a fun visit.

Today’s walk: 5.4 miles, 16 flights of stairs.

Tomorrow we fly to Lisbon for the next leg of our journey.  Thank you Paris.  Hello Portugal!

Much love to you all,

J&J

 

 

 

 

Travel: Paris 4, Montmartre, and Belleville walk

It was yet another cold but sunny day in Paris. Today we literally hiked up to one of the most popular and scenic parts of Paris, Montmartre and its glorious Basilique du Sacre-Coeur.

The church dome overlooking the village artist’s square.
The exceptional beauty of the iconic church.
The view overlooking Paris from Montmartre.

Next was a visit to the neighborhood of Belleville.  Another hilly area settled by working class people for centuries northeast of the City Center.  It was made popular by the beloved Edith Piaf, who sang on the streets of Paris as a girl and was widely popular during her life.  Today, it’s still a diverse working class part of the city.

This church was often where the young Edith would sing on the streets for passing locals.
If you listen carefully you can still her Edith singing.
This plaque is mounted in front of the house where legend says Edith was born. Historical records show it was the hospital nearby.

Soon it’s time for lunch.  Our favorite in the area was closed but we stumbled upon a new discovery and managed to get a table.  It was a delightful surprise.  Add this to your list when you next visit.  Moncoeur Belleville 1, Rue Des Envierges 75020 Paris, http: moncoeurbelleville.com

Classic traditional cafe with innovative food, attentive service and affordable. It’s popular with families.
John selected a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc for us.
John’s main course was a creamy mushroom risotto with watercress.
Enjoying a new wine!
A delightful pasta primavera.

It was a fun day with a long walk through a part of Paris many visiting folks overlook.  Walking distance was 5.6 miles and 20 flights of stairs!

Tomorrow is our last full day in Paris.  We will be spontaneous since we have no plans at this time.  Monday we fly to Lisbon for our next adventure.

J&J

Travel: Paris 3, Musee Marmottan and the Latin Quarter to the Bastille

Today was another great day.  We visited an incredible museum, Musee Marmottan.  The collection is housed in a 19th century mansion.  It’s the largest collection of Monet’s paintings anywhere in the world.  It was the gift of Michel Monet, Claude Monet’s son.  The collection included Monet’s personal collection of Camille Pissarro, Pierre Auguste Renoir and Alfred Sisley.

It is a “not to be missed” site by any art appreciation visitor to Paris.  Photography was permitted without flash much to our surprise.  Here’s some of our favorites.

Apologies:  The collection included too many to record details.

Gustave Caillebotte, Rue de Paris, 1877.
Portrait of Napoleon as a a child.
Still life by Gauguin.

The Monet’s:

The Water Lilies: (and at least a dozen more)

The House:

And of course, we rewarded ourselves with lunch at one of our favorite restaurants, Brasserie Balzar!

Following lunch we walked back to our apartment.  Total distance, 5 miles.

Travel: Paris walk 2, the Marais.

It was another chilly day in Paris but the sun was out again making all things brighter and beautiful.  Today we decided to visit another old neighborhood, the Marais.  Due West of our rented apartment in the Bastille.

We love the variety of history and architecture, the jumbled narrow streets, the unique shops and restaurants, and its quirky character.

Small by Parisian standards but elegantly serene neighborhood church.
A small period Palace repurposed for today’s needs.
One of our favorite spots in Paris, Place Des Vosges shines in the winter sun.
Four classic fountains await Spring and water!
The Marais is one of the oldest and still vibrant Jewish quarters in Paris.
Leaving our favorite Middle Eastern lunch spot. Note the John Wayne swagger!
One of dozens of peek a boo views in the Marais.
The iconic Pompidou Center is starting to show signs of age but still houses a world class modern art museum.
The ever changing examples of public art, this installment near the newly rebuilt and massively expanded Les Halles complex featuring shopping, entertainment and sports venues.

Tonight, dinner at one of our all time favorite restaurants (below).  Bon appetite!

La Fontaine De Mars, rue Saint Dominque

Today’s walk 3.8 miles.

Travel: Paris Walk

We woke up to chilly morning sunshine and decided to explore the city of light with a walk.  We hopped on the #68 bus from the Bastille Opera House to the Eiffel Tower where we would start our walk.

Angel atop the massive bronze column in front of the Bastille Opera House.
Eiffel Tower through the trees.

We wandered through the shopping neighborhoods, Rue Saint Dominique near the Effiel Tower and the Esplanade des Invalides.

As the noon hour neared, lunch was on our mind.  And near by was an old favorite, L’Ami Jean, 27 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris (Reservations 0147058689). It has been several years since our last visit.  We were pleased to see its become quite popular with travel writers and food critics and we were able to be seated without a reservation.  Lunch was excellent.

Time for more walking.  We made our way over to where Paris all began, Ile de la Cite.  It was like visiting an old friend.  Notre Dame never looked better.

Notre Dame from the sunny side of the afternoon.
Saints climbing a staircase to heaven.
Small neighborhoods near Notre Dame.

Just north is the Hotel de Ville (City Hall)

Heavy winter rains caused flooding in Paris recently.  The waters have receded somewhat but many roads and walking paths are still under water.

Look closely at the bottom of the photo and you can see the road under water.
Ile St. Louis with stairways to the Seine River.

Note:  our total walk was just over 5 miles.  Time for wine!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Movies: Black Panther, Early Man

Black Panther

This is another hit from the Marvel Studios folks.  This one explains generations of kings of the African nation of Wakanda, the secrets of the royal family and its court.  And there are more than a few who want to over throw the king and his family and so on…

The acting is quite good.  Chadwick Boseman makes a perfect King.  Michael B. Jordan is even better as the rival.  Lupita Nyong’o is great as the guardian warrior.  Forest Whitaker and Angela Bassett both deliver their characters.  There are at least another dozen actors that round out the cast.  The visual effects are quite remarkable.  The script is unique with several nice surprises.

Both critics and audiences like this film.  So did we.  It was refreshing, new, different and inventive.  We saw it on a giant screen at the Empire Theater on Leicester Square.  The film is rated PG-13 for prolonged scenes of action, violence and a brief rude gesture.  We noticed a sizable number of youngsters in the audience.  It is listed as an Action & Adventure, Drama, Science Fiction & Fantasy.  It runs 2 hour, 15 minutes.

Rating  

Early Man

From the Aardman Animation Studios, this stop-motion animation is about the clash between the Stone Age and the Bronze Age.  The animators used 273 puppets in the production.  Its ultimate focus pits the two tribes in a “football”/”soccer” game and the stakes for the cave men is their home valley.  It’s no mistake the valley is Manchester!

It has the right mix of silly, naivete, charming and intelligence.  The commentaries on the then/now social culture are a hoot.

The leading voices include Eddie Redmayne as the voice of caveman Dug.  Tom Hiddleston is the voice of Lord Nooth.  Maisie Williams is the voice of Goona.  Timothy Spall is Chief Bobnar and Nick Park is the voice of Hobnob.  At least another dozen English actors round out the cast.

It’s rated PG for rude humor and some action but there is nothing there to keep the kids away.  In fact, in our audience, the kids got the puns and humor without missing a step.

The grenre is listed as Fantasy/Action.  It runs 1 hour, 40 minutes.

Rating