Travel: J&J’s Italy Travel Tips

Hi everyone,

Some family friends of ours asked us for travel tips for an Italy trip this Spring.  John drafted the following document drawing on our recent six week trip to Italy.

We thought we would share this information with all of you in the event you, friends or family have any interest in similar travels any time soon.

J&J

Italy will be lovely in April.  As soon as you know your dates for both Rome and Florence it is best to buy Museum tickets online.  It is not too early.  The Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are a must.  http://www.vaticantickets.org  It’s best to visit first thing in the morning or late afternoon.  Buying tickets online allows you to skip the very long lines and walk right in.  In Florence you should buy tickets online for the Uffizi and Accademia museums.  Lines for both are very long.  You do not need guided tours in any museum.  Best to just wander.

We have not used Airbnb but have friends who do and they recommend them.  One thing we recommend while looking for an apartment is not to rent near the train station.  We find in Rome, Venice and Florence the train station areas are crowded, touristy, lack good restaurants and have plenty of pick pockets.

If you do want a hotel we can highly recommend in Rome the Hotel Due Torri.  And in Florence the Hotel Pendini.  Both are family friendly and very centrally located for walking to major sites.

If you are traveling by train between cities we recommend buying tickets online to avoid large crowds at the train stations.  We like raileurope.com or trentitalia.com.  Train stations also have ticket kiosks so you can avoid lines at ticket counters. For longer distances buy first class tickets.  Short rides second class is fine.  Train tickets in Italy are very reasonable.

ROME

We like to take the red Hop On, Hop Off bus.  We get a two or three day ticket.  Ride once to see the sites then use it as a taxi to go back to places and neighborhoods that appeal to you.  The subway in Rome is safe and easy to use.  If you use a taxi make sure he turns the meter on.

A specialty in Rome is the fried artichoke.  It is a great appetizer.  On the menu it will say carciofi alla giudia.  Jewish fried artichoke.  la Campana is very good for dinner.  Two blocks away is Ristorante Lagana.  Both are near the Hotel Due Torri which is near Piazza Navona.  For great pizza and mozzarella and tomato salad we like Obica.  Gelato in Rome is wonderful.

If you are flying into Rome, a taxi from the airport to any hotel and area in central Rome is a flat 49 euro.

FLORENCE

Florence is very compact and great for walking.  Must sees are Santa Croce and the Duomo.  If you get an apartment the Central Mercato is great for groceries and other items.  South of the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens are nice places to visit.

Food in Florence is the best in Italy.  As is the gelato.  For dinner we like Trattoria al Trebbio .  Nearby is Ristorante La Spada.  They have a nice outdoor area in front to eat outside or inside.  Great linguine and clams.  Good pasta and pizzas at Giglio Rosso.  And if you are tired of Italian food a very local and good Turkish place is Istanbul Doner Kabap.  A block south of Santa Croce.  Via de’ Benci, 18r.

Almost any little side street in Florence will have small shops where they make paper, leather and very nice small items.  Handicrafts are still a tradition there.

VENICE

This is a great city to wander and get lost.  It is small so you won’t be lost for long.  Do not stay in Venice Mestre.  That is the industrial mainland city where most Venetians live.  You want to be in Venice.

Saint Marks Cathedral is wonderful.  Gold everywhere.  The farther you get from Saint Mark’s Square the less touristy.  Two restaurants we love.  Rosa Rossa.  In October we were in Venice four nights and ate there three times for dinner.  Reservations recommended.  Great food at very decent prices.  Everything on the menu is great.  Just typing this makes us want to go back.  A very nice lunch is Al Ponte Storto.  On a small canal off the Campo S. Aponal.  Great linguine and clams and chocolate desserts.  Very local.

If you are flying into or out of Venice, best way to/from the airport is the Alilaguna water bus.  Water taxis are very expensive.

NAPLES

We really don’t know Naples well.  We were there in October for one day.  They have a fantastic Archaeological museum.  The best in Italy.  If you don’t go to Pompeii (we did not) this Museum is actually considered better for artifacts.

A word of caution in Naples.  Pick pockets are everywhere.  We learned that first hand riding their modern subway from the port to the museum.  Someone tried getting into my backpack as I was standing in the crowded car.  Fortunately Jim saw him and yelled at him.  They travel in pairs and pretend to be musicians wanting money on the subways and other crowded areas.  Best to keep your pockets empty and any purse or backpack wear on your front.  Naples is known for pizza and limoncello.

That’s about it.  We hope this is helpful.  If anyone is planning an Italy trip, please feel free to contact us if you need information or have additional questions.  Happy to help.

John and Jim

Movies: Glass, The Upside, Stan & Ollie

Glass

The release of Glass translates as the ending of M. Night Shyamalan’s triology that started with the 2000 release of Unbreakable, followed by Split in 2016.  All, in our humble opinion, are creepy, haunting movies about very disturbed characters played by several very talented actors like James McAvoy, Bruce Willis, Anya Taylor-Joy, Samuel L. Jackson, Sarah Paulson and Spencer Treat Clark.

The critics have not been kind to this film.  Quite the contrary, the chorus of negative reviews far out weigh the positive.  We land somewhere in the middle.  Since the story is fodder from the comic books, we’ll err on the side of a low score.  That said, Mr. Shyamalan’s products have always been “out of the box” and this rendition follows suite accordingly.

The film is rated PG-13 for violence including some bloody images, thematic elements and language.  There are some very disturbing scenes.  We feel strongly this film is not appropriate for children.  The run time is 110 minutes.  We are actually pleased the trilogy is over.

Rating  

The Upside

We debated whether or not to see this film, but we are very happy we did.  It’s a story about a quadriplegic billionaire who needs an attendant for day-to-day assistance who hires a paroled ex-convict for the position.

The film is “inspired by a true story” but is based on a hit 2011 French comedy film The Untouchables.

It’s an interesting cast:  Bryan Cranston plays the wealthy Phil.  Kevin Hart plays the crusty ex con, Dell.  Nicole Kidman is Yvonne the tough personal assistant.  Julianna Margulies plays a close friend.  Aja Naomi King plays Dell’s wife.  Tate Donovan plays a wealthy neighbor.

The film is serious in just the right places and lighthearted where it should be.  It wanders off target now and then but always seems to find itself back to the important story line.

The film is rated PG-13 for suggestive content and drug use.  Parents be advised, there is additional content that may not be suitable for young children.

The film’s genre is noted as Comedy, Drama with a run time of  126 minutes.

Rating: 

Stan & Ollie

We are glad they made this film.  It’s an unusual perspective on the lifetime careers of Stanley Laurel and Oliver Hardy.  The film begins with the 1937 film set directed by Hal Roach at the peak of Laurel & Hardy’s career.

Fast forward twenty years where Stan & Ollie are touring England at less than premier venues, struggling to keep their performances rich and satisfying.  Humbled and frustrated they never give up.

John C. Reilly endured three hours of makeup every day to transform into Oliver Hardy.  Steve Coogan is perfect as Stan Laurel.  Shirley Henderson is superb as Lucielle Hardy and Nina Arianda is hilarious as Ida Kitaeva Laurel.

Ultimately there is some conflict between Stan & Ollie that transcends decades.  Old wounds and waning careers collide with health and friendship.

The film is rated PG for some language and for smoking.  It is listed as a Comedy, Drama with a run time of 97 minutes.

Rating: 

Movies: Destroyer, Replicas, The Aspern Papers

Destroyer

This film is exceptional but often difficult to watch.  It’s unique in many ways yet it seems familiar.  In some ways it’s a reminder my (Jim’s) childhood rearing in Southern California, the then brutal street gangs and underbelly of a city from LA to San Diego.

Nicole Kidman is amazing as she morphs into her unrecognizable character as an undercover LA cop. The core cast includes over twenty primary actors.  Representing the guys, mostly bad guys, all excellent, are Sabastian Stan, English actor Toby Kebbell, Scoot McNairy (gotta love the name), Bradley Whitford, Beau Knapp, Zack Villa and Canadian Shamier Anderson.

The story is gritty, often brutal.  It’s very intense with an abundance of conflict.  It’s dark with lots of bad people doing bad things. The film has been nominated for numerous acting awards.  It’s currently in wide release.

It’s rated R for language, violence, sexual content and brief drug use.  We are not recommending this film for children.  Its genre is listed as a Mystery/Suspense with a run time of 123 minutes.

Rating: 

Replicas

Oy!  Where to start…stop…explain?!  We viewed this film at one of the local theaters closest to our home strictly for convenience.  We had heard about it but didn’t really know much about it.  It was officially released in the US January 11, 2019.  It has not been well received by most critics.

It’s the story about a “synthetic biology” scientist, played by Keanu Reeves, whose family is lost in a tragic accident.  Desperate to save his family the scientist uses company assets to clone his family members.

The cast is pretty small.  In addition to Reeves, Alice Eve plays the wife.  Emjay Anthony plays Matt, the son.  Emily Alyn Lind is the daughter. John Ortiz is the Boss.  Thomas Middleditch plays the coworker.

Ultimately, this film fails on several fronts.  It fails as a sci-fi thriller.  Much of the story line is laughable but it’s not a comedy.  The film was sold after a private screening at the 2017 Toronto International film festival for $4 million.  The buyer spent $10.5 million dollars promoting the film.  Worldwide gross to date is only $6.2 million.

It is rated PG-13 for thematic material, violence, disturbing images, some nudity and sexual references with a run time of 107 minutes.  It is listed as Mystery & Suspense, Science Fiction & Fantasy.  We do not feel it is suitable for children.

Rating  

The Aspern Papers

This film is based on the Henry James novella published in 1888.  The film follows the story about Morton Vint who traveled to Venice to find the papers of the dead romantic poet Jeffrey Aspern.

Enter Juliana Bordereau, an acquaintance of Aspern, brilliantly played by Vanessa Redgrave.  Her performance may be the primary reason to seek out this film currently in limited release.

Other notable performances include Jon Kortajarena as Jeffrey Aspern, Jonathan Rhys Meyers who stumbles badly as Morton Vint.  Joely Richardson is magnificent as Miss Tina.  (Note:  Ms. Richardson is Ms. Redgrave’s daughter.)

The movie is beautifully filmed and captures Venice at a glamorous time in history.  Unfortunately, the disconnects in the story, inconsistent performances and the occasional bizarre scenes keep this film from being cohesive.

It’s rated R for some sexuality/nudity.  Due to some provocative scenes with multiple adults, we do not suggest this film for children.  Its genre is listed as Drama with a run time of 1 hour, 30 minutes.

Rating  

Movies: They Shall Not Grow Old, The Old Man & The Gun, Escape Room

Greetings!   We got back from London Wednesday evening after a painfully long 11-1/2 hour flight.  There were at least a dozen other international flights in the process of clearing passport control and immigration when we arrived in San Francisco.  Thank goodness for Global Entry!  It is worth every penny if you travel outside the country often.

Scan your passport at any Global Entry kiosk, answer a few questions electronically, push a button for your pass, show it to an immigration officer (even ahead of flight crews!) and off you go.  That’s it!

Now…off to the movies!  In London we were a bit surprised with the slim pickings for films we had not already seen.  Nonetheless, sleuth John managed to find two, both in very limited release apparently due to the awards season.  Nonetheless, we found both worthy of a look.  Let us know what you think if you are able to see these.

Cheers! J&J

They Shall Not Grow Old

This incredible Documentary by the acclaimed Director Peter Jackson was a collaboration between the Director and London’s Imperial War Museum.  The film used 100 hours of actual WWI footage, much of it damaged or in poor condition.

Nonetheless, the result is a magic carpet ride into the past.  Be warned, this feels like a real flashback.  The unbelievable conditions, the raw reality of warfare at the time and the incredible conditions that characterized the era are stunning and heartbreaking.

This film is nominated as Best Documentary in the upcoming BAFTA Awards.  If you are a history buff or student of WWI you may still view this film at limited venues.  Check FATHOM EVENTS.COM for information about Pay for View locations.

Parents should be cautioned.  There are numerous lifeless corpses in various states of decay and disfigurement.  The narrative parallels the horrific images.

US markets have rated this film R.  It is listed as a History/War Documentary running 1 hour, 39 minutes.

Rating: 

The Old Man & The Gun

If Clint Eastwood can be a drug runner at his age, why can’t Robert Redford be a bank robber?  In this film there is a lot less angst and a lot more admiration for the character Redford portrays.  The story is a biography of bank robberies spanning decades.  It is based on Forrest Tucker, a real bank robber, and a San Quentin escapee.

The cast is impressive.  Robert Redford is the headliner, Forrest Tucker.  Sissy Spacek plays the love interest.  Casey Affleck, Keith Carradine, Elisabeth Moss, Danny Glover and Gene Jones along with a dozen more actors round out the cast.

The film is rated PG-13 for brief strong language.  It is listed as a drama with a run time of 1 hour, 34 minutes.

Rating: 

Escape Room

This was our first film after our return from London this week.  We were so glad this was still in the theaters.

Six strangers show up as contestants to participate in an “escape room” contest only to discover it’s way more than they bargained for.  It’s a test of survival in several different environments designed like a game but with only one way out.  Pick the wrong path…

It’s an interesting and intriguing twist.  The acting is pretty good featuring Canadian Taylor Russell, Adam Robitel, Debra Ann Woll, Logan Miller, Jay Ellis, Nik Dodani, Dutch actor Yorick van Wageninggen and Jessica Sutton.

All in all, an interesting concept that keeps your attention with some thought provoking twists.  It’s not ground breaking but it skillfully negotiates its subject matter.

It is rated PG-13 for terror/perilous action, violence, language and some suggestive material.  We do not recommend this film for children.  The genre is listed as Action & Adventure, Horror, Mystery/Drama & Suspense.  Reviews have been mixed.  The run time is 1 hour, 39 minutes.

Rating: 

Travel: Camden Town, London

Today is our last day in London.  It’s always a bit sad especially when we’ve had such a nice time.  London is ever changing and yet the same.

Yesterday we visited the neighborhood of Camden, its excellent Jewish Museum, its famed market along with a peek at its old but functional canal system.

J&J

Entrance to Kazimerz, the Jewish District of Krakow, 1935-1938.
Mizrach tablet indicating the direction of Jerusalem, 1841 under license by Queen Victoria.
Marc Chagall, New York, 1941
Jewish children from Kazimierz, Krakow, 1935.
Ornate Synagogue Ark, Venice, 17th-18th century.
Table set for a sacred dinner.
Labor Union banner for Bakers.
A lengthy and complex canal system once primarily used to move goods, still functions today for both commercial and private use.
Our latest dinning discovery was Gino D’Campo, 29/33 Chalk Farm Road, NW1 8AJ, London. T: 0207267 2678.

Arts: The British Museum

The weather has continued to be favorable, lows have been in the high 30s with highs in the low 50s with virtually no rain.

Lots of walking with good use of the Bus and Underground systems.

The day before yesterday we visited the ever popular British Museum.  More security lines that moved surprisingly fast.

First stop:  It’s been many years since our last visit to the King’s Gallery.   What a gem.

The Museum’s facade looks as grand as ever.
The reliquary of the Thorne of Jesus, gold, rubies, pearls, emeralds is small but exquisite.
Room after room filled with priceless contents, sculptures from around the world and eras. Books and antiques spanning centuries. Simply magnificent!

Discobolos, the discus-thrower.
Winged Cupid
Exhibit from the Americas.
Incredible and rare image of the ancient gods of The America’s.
This 20 foot + column was the cornerstone to an ancient Temple in Canada.

Mummies!

“Here’s looking at you kid.”
Girls Rule!
Wall paintings were commonly used to record important events.

Greece

The Parthenon
One of dozens of Parthenon panels.
A life size image of a horse is stunning.

Travel: Windsor Castle, United Kingdom

Windsor Castle is considered the primary residence by Queen Elizabeth II.  She spends most weekends there.

The last time we visited the Castle was shortly after the reopening from the first reconstruction of the 1992 fire.

We are glad to report the Castle is more magnificent now than ever.  Now the bad news.  It is more popular now than ever before.  Hoards of visitors arrive daily.

We arrived by a fast train from Paddington Station first thing in the morning only to discover lengthy lines with airport like security.

Fortunately, is was a nice sunny.  Unfortunately, the Castle does not allow ANY interior photos, with or without flash.   Additionally, we did not find any publications, post cards or any articles with interior images available in any of the gift shops (on or off the Castle grounds).

All that said, it was an enjoyable visit.  The St. George’s Chapel (larger than many cathedrals) houses hundreds of years of history and numerous Royal tombs, including the Queen Mother and her husband King Edward VI, Princess Anne, King Henry VIII, Jane Seymour, King Charles I and many more.

Hundreds of water spouts along the walls.
Looking up the Palace walls from the town below.
Approaching the main gates of the palace.
St. George’s Chapel and the supporting buildings beyond.

Arts: The National Gallery, London

A big HELLO from a chilly but sunny London.  We spent the better part of a day at the massive National Gallery.  It houses one of the largest collections of art spanning centuries.

We thought you might like a peek at what might be the best of the best.  We hope you will enjoy.

Leonardo Di Vinci, The Virgin of the Rocks.
Jan Van Eyck, The Arnolfino Portrait, 1434.
The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne and Saint John the Baptist. Leonardo di Vinci.
Rembrandt, Self Protrait at the age of 63, 1669.
Rembrandt, Belshazzar’s Feast.
Joseph Mallory William Turner, The Fighting Temeraire tugged to her last berth to be broken up. 1838, 1839.
Vincent Van Gogh, 1853-1890. Sunflowers, 1888.

 

Movies: Mirai, Vice, If Beale Street Could Talk, Second Act

HAPPY NEW YEAR greetings to all!  We send our best wishes to you for a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!!

Please see the odd mix of films and their reviews below.  We are unable to explain the logic other than it appears to be a ‘free for all’ as the year comes to an end.  These four films each have quirky distribution and release dates.  They may not be available in some markets at all.  If by chance you have seen any of these, we would love to hear your comments.

Special note:  This was a record breaking movie count for us this year, 228 films in theaters!  It will be an interesting year ahead as companies like Movie Pass struggle to survive and AMC’s A List grows and streaming sources continue to carve out their chunk of the audiences.

J&J

Mirai

This complicated and sometimes confusing Japanese animated feature film by Director Mamoru Hosoda tells the story about a young boy struggling to find his place in his family when his baby sister joins the household.

It’s quite creative and insightful.  There is a magic garden, time travel, many adventures and a few spooky encounters.  There are a few dark scenes that seem to represent frustration and despair but these are balanced with many uplifting moments of discovery and joy.

The entire film is dubbed in English which makes it easy to watch (rather than reading subtitles).  It is rated PG for thematic elements including some scary images.  It may not be suitable for young children.  In fact, there were no children in the theater where we viewed the film.

The genre is listed as Animation, Anime & Manga, Art House & International, Kids & Family with a run time of 98 minutes.

Rating: 

Vice

This is an unusual film about former Vice President Dick Cheney and his role as Vice President to President George W. Bush and the 2000 presidential election.  There is nothing new or surprising from a historical perspective except for the “how” things occurred rather than “what” occurred.

The acting is excellent with an all star cast.  Christian Bale transforms into Dick Cheney.   Sam Rockwell captures George W. Bush.  Steve Carell becomes Donald Rumsfeld.  Amy Adams is brilliant as Lynne Cheney.  Justin Kirk is Scooter Libby.  LisaGay Hamilton is perfect as Condoleeza Rice.  There are dozens more including bit parts for Eddie Marsan, Naomi Watts, Alfred Molina and Jeff Bosley.

The film is rated R for language and some violent images.  We do not think this film is appropriate for children.  It is listed as a drama with a run time of 132 minutes.

Rating: 

If Beale Street Could Talk

This powerful film is set in 1972 Harlem.  It is based on the novel by the same name.  It is stunning movie making.  It’s a testimony to an African American couple’s unbreakable bond with each other in a racially biased world.

The acting is exceptional.  KiKi Layne is the wife, Stephan James is the husband.  Regina King is the mom.  Colman Dominggo is the father.  Ed Skrein is the bad cop.  Dave Franco plays the real estate agent.

The film is expertly crafted, brimming with social commentary and a sensory script.  It is sometimes painful to watch but there are also moments filled with love and compassion.

It’s rated R for language and some sexual content.  It’s not suitable for young children.  It’s already nominated for three Golden Globes.  There’s undoubtedly more accolades to come.  It’s genre is Drama, Romance with a run time of 117 minutes.

Rating 

Second Act

This ‘feel good’ movie works mostly because of the believable characters offered to the audience.  It’s the story of an undervalued assistant store manager, Jennifer Lopez, who manages to maneuver her way into a high profile Management job while juggling friends, family and a boyfriend.  It asks a lot from the audience.

That said, the cast comes together just enough to pull it off.  Milo Ventimiglia plays the boyfriend.  Vannessa Hudgens is the daughter.  There is a mix of friends and coworkers rounding out the core characters.

It is rated PG-13 for some crude sexual references and language.  It’s listed as a Comedy, Romance.  We feel it is suitable for mature children.  The run time is 103 minutes.

Rating 

Movies: Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse, On the Basis of Sex, Welcome to Marwen

Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse

This just released rendition of Spider-Man takes place in a computer generated “multiverse” where seemingly all the spider-people/cartoons exist in alternate universes.  Apparently there was/has been swarms of radioactive spiders floating around the spheres infecting cartoon characters en mass.

The good news is the approach is engaging, unique, thought provoking and, well, just a lighthearted ride through the eyes of those talented animators.  It has a good cast of characters:  Shamik Moor as Miles Morales, Jake Johnson and Nicolas Cage as Spider-Man, John Mulaney as Spider-Ham, Hailee Steinfeld as Spider-Woman.  Mahershala Ali as Uncle Aaron.  Liev Schrieber, Lily Tomlin, Chris Pine, Zoe Kravitz and a dozen more round out the voice actors.

It is rated PG for frenetic animated sequences of animated action violence, thematic elements and mild language.  Parents with young children should be aware there is large scale destruction, frequent peril, lots of suspense, questionable language (crap, hell, dang, dumb…) but it is balanced with friendship, teamwork and such.

It’s listed as Action & Adventure, Animation, Kids & Family, Science Fiction & Fantasy.  The run time is 100 minutes.

Rating: 

On the Basis of Sex

The much anticipated release of “On the Basis of Sex” is the story about the life of Ruth Bader Ginsburg, the Supreme Court Justice, dating back to a 1970’s case about tax deduction and forward to her appointment to the Supreme Court in 1993.  Judge Ginsburg this year celebrates 25 years on the Supreme Court.

True: Ginsburg attended classes for her husband when he was sick.

True: Husband Marty gave her the Moritz v. Commissioner Case.

False: Jane, their daughter, worked with Ginsburg growing up.

False: Women’s Rights Activist Dorothy Kenyon helped Gisnburg gain backing from the ALCU.

The acting makes the story believable.  Felicity Jones plays Ginsburg  as wife and mother.  Armie Hammer plays her husband Martin. Cailee Spaeny plays the daughter.  Justin Theroux, Kathy Bates and Sam Waterson give solid performances.  Another 60 plus actors fill in the rest of the cast.

The film is rated PG-13 for some language and suggestive content.  It is listed as a Drama with a run time of 120 minutes.  It is a must see for history and current event buffs.

Rating: 

Welcome to Marwen

This is a unique film made interesting because it is based on a documentary about a man with Post Traumatic Stress Syndrome after being beaten nearly to death.

The cast is compact.  Steve Carell does a good job as the victim, Mark Hogancamp.  Leslie Mann is the neighbor.  Merritt Wever works at the local hobby shop.  Janelle Monae is a friend from rehab.  Eiza Gonzalez is a friend at the bar where Mark works part-time.  Another dozen actors round out the cast.

Audience response has been mixed.  That’s a shame because it is ultimately about a hate crime, the collateral damage it caused, and the life long impact it had.  That said, the story danced around several topics without explanation.

It is rated PG-13 for sequences of fantasy violence, disturbing images, brief suggestive content, thematic material and language.  We do not recommend this film for children due to violence and subject matter.  It is listed a drama running 116 minutes.

Rating